Query Related To Interlining And Fusion

Problem-2
A shirt manufacturer was using local woven interlining ( 34s x 34s, powder coated type ) for fusing shirt collars, cuffs on a locally made flat press. His buyer's technician found glue marks on the collar, cuff and after washing there was delamination of the interlining resulting in wavy collars.

Observations :
1.The local press had a fixed loading of 300 kg weight over a size of 80 cm x 40 cm platform this yielded little less than approximately 1 kg/cm² pressure during fusing which was insufficient for LDPE.
2.The adhesive used was LDPE ( Melting Point -129 degree C.) scattered and temp set on the dial was 170 degree C. On checking by thermo paper the bed temp it was found to be only 135 degree - 140 degree C.
3.The press was located close to the window.
4.Time was set at 15 seconds.
5.Fusing parts were sometimes bigger than the fabric.

Solutions :
1.The press was relocated, away from open doors and windows.
2.The lining was changed to microdot and temporarily fixed at the corners by the top of an iron and then placed reverse on the fusing bed with fabric side facing the top platform.
3.Temp was lowered to 160 degree C and glue line checked by thermo paper under actual fusing condition to get 130 degree C.
4.Time was increased to 20 seconds.
5.Interlining trimmed to keep it 0.5 cm less than the collars & cuffs.

Explanation:
Due to placement of the press near open windows, everytime the press was opened, cool air was rushing in and lowering the bed temp considerably ( although the dial temp showed 170 degree C ). By changing location the temp was reduced to 160 degree C. Even at this temp we could get the required glue line temp of 130 degree C.
Since nothing could be done to increase the pressure on the fusing press, so we increased the time to 20 sec for the running production to allow sufficient time for heat transfer and advised to switch over to a continuous type press where higher pressure of about 3 kg/cm² was available. Scattered coating by LPDE is not good particularly on woven interlining due to uneven application of glue which tends to come out through the wide gaps present between warp & weft threads.The heater is fitted in the top platform flat bed presses, so when the interlining is placed over the fabric there is a possibility of strike-back of glue ( more so in woven based interlining ). So the placement of lining and fabric was reversed and to facilitate easy handling; it was temporarily fixed at the corners. This gave a stronger bond with softer handle and solved the glue mark shine problem.