Query Related To Interlining And Fusion

Problem-1
A shirt manufacture in Bombay shipped out heavy cotton twill (brushed) shirts in August. On arrival of goods he received a claim from his customer complaining of heavy delamination of interlining. This was very shocking for the manufacturer since they have been using the same source of fabrics interlining and fusing machine condition which was in earlier lots shipped out in June/ July. But the claim pieces were in front of him giving the tell-tale story.

Observations :
Inspite of every thing looking to be similar, a thorough/ investigation revealed following serious/ differences which was not accounted for by the production manager.

Location of press and climate :
The press was placed in a corner close to the door/ windows.
Climatic conditions: Humidity was 80-90 percent in August as compared to 50 percent in June-July.
Cold rush of wet air current was gushing throiugh the press bringing down the inside chamber's temperature considerably down. Thus, although the temperature setting at 140 dergee centigrade was perfect, but the moisture rich air inside the chamber and heavy moisture content in the thick twill fabric brought down the glue line to below 110 which was insufficient to melt the PES ( Polyester ) Adhesive ( melt.pt.115c-120c ) this was checked by thermo papers.

Solutions :
1.The press was relocated at a place away from open doors and windows.
2.The fabric was dried properly first and then taken for fusing.
3.The time was increased from 12 seconds to 14-15 seconds to allow more time for melting of glue and bonding. Fused pieces were washed ten times to check the bonding which was perfect.

Moral :
Please check glue line temperature by thermo paper before start of production. Do a fusing and washing test on each production fabric and interlining lot received by the store before production to ensure perfect bonding performance.