ANNUAL REPORT 2000-2001--TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS

COTTON TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS

ASSOCIATIONS Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) are registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 (XXI of 1860).

The main objective of these institutions is to carry out research and render consultancy services to the textile industry on various aspects of textile technology with a view to reducing the cost and improving the quality and durability of fabrics, reducing pollution, conserving energy and utilising waste, adopting new technology and improving the technology in the decentralised handloom sector. A large number of projects of considerable importance was undertaken and the studies made by these Associations have helped to improve the efficiency and productivity of the textile Industry.

The Research Associations have carried out original and innovative work in several fields of textiles. In addition to result oriented, short-term projects in the field of management in the Textile Industry, the Research Associations are also currently engaged in other specific projects such as (i) Development of Chitin & Chotosan derivatives and their evaluation as Textile printing thickness and for other applications, (ii) development of fabric hairiness indicator, (iii) a study on the role of cotton fiber maturity, (iv) development of computerized system for marker making in garment industry, (v) Development of industrial Yarn for specific use (vi) micro encapsulation of enzymens and other speciality chemicals and their use, (vii) upgrading the quality of knitted goods, (viii) fibre quality enhancement by process control at ginning etc. Besides, useful R&D work is also being done on jute diversified products with Government of India-UNDP Funds

SYNTHETIC & ART SILK MILLS’ RESEARCH ASSOCIATION
The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association (SASMIRA), Mumbai is a Textile Research Association located at Mumbai. SASMIRA’s principle activities include research and development, provision of technical services, testing and training facilities in the field of silk and art silk.

SASMIRA has completed 4 projects in 1999-2000 sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles. These projects were on various topics related to mechanical and chemical processing of textiles, energy conservation, product development, fibre and polymer science and instrumentation. SASMIRA has been engaged in following projects:
(i) Evaluating Powerloom Fabrics for their Suitability for Automatic Garment Manufacturing for Exports.
(ii) Technology Development for Recycling Polythylene Trephthalate (PET) Bottles for Specific End Uses.
(iii) Establishing structural parameters and post treatment requirements in agro textiles like sunscreen, bird net, etc. for green house usages.
(iv) Development of software to evaluate output from the yarn evenness tester for assessing the magnitude of evenness fault analysis and for pinpointing specific areas for pinpointing specific areas for corrective action.
(v) Development of eco-friendly antibacterial finishes using indigenous natural products.
(vi) Development of Low Cost Effluent Treatment Model for Silk/Synthetic Wet Processing Units in Decentralised sector.
(vii) Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Reducing Agents used in vat and sulphur dyes on cellulosic and polyester/cellulosic blends.
(viii) Print paste re-utilisation scheme for the decentralised sector.
(ix) Development of blue standard and grey scale standard for evaluation of fastness of properties of Textiles.
(x) Development of technique for dyeing cum sizing in package form to facilitate production of striped shirting in decentralised textile sector.
(xi) Designing high performance into polyester/viscose blended fibre fabrics.

SASMIRA is giving excellent testing services to textile manufacturers, traders, exporters, Govt. Agencies, R&D institutes etc. for the past four decades in the field of man-made textiles, synthetic textiles and allied fields. Its reports are widely accepted and recognized in the industry. SASMIRA had also organised a Seminar on “Technological Upgradation” and a mini exhibition on modern technologies.

SASMIRA has also been actively involved in Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUF). SASMIRA is helping powerlooms units to prepare bankable project proposals for modernisation under TUFS.

MAN-MADE TEXTILES RESEARCH ASSOCIATION
The Man-Made Textile Research Association (MANTRA), Surat is a Textile Research Association registered under the Societies Act of Gujarat. MANTRA is one of the Textile Research Associations catering to multifarious needs of the textile and allied industry at large. The activities of MANTRA are primarily aimed at planned and healthy growth of the decentralised textile industry.
MANTRA has been undertaking the R&D assignments as per the needs of local synthetic textile industry and the stress is, particularly, more on the application and transfer of available research results to the local decentralised textile industry which badly needs such inputs to withstand the global competition round the corner. Looking into the needs of Industry, MANTRA has undertaken research projects on such areas as pollution control (including noise pollution) and on mechanical and wet processing. Some of on-going projects are: Effect of different methods of effluent treatment and chemical dosing on water pollution parameters in the effluent of synthetic textile process houses in South Gujarat; Study on the noise pollution and its control in the loomsheds in the decentralised powerloom industry in and around Surat; Standarisation of dyeing of microdenier polyester fabrics and an attempt to improve dye fastness properties; Development of combination yarns from differentially shrinkable/ yarns using airjet texturising and performance evaluations of the fabric made therefrom; Development of newlook synthetic filament yarns on false twist texturiser for value added fabrics; To study the toxicity of various chemicals, finishing agents and auxilaries used in textile processing and biossay study of different anti-bacterial finished fabrics; Bio-technological applications in textiles for quality improvement and value addition, Characterisation of amine based and other acid and disperse dye intermediates by creating an impurity profile using GC/MS, AAS and HPTLC systems. MANTRA management gives top priority to developing infrastructure facilities for R&D and Technical Services.
MANTRA has a Computer Aided Design Centre and three Powerlooms Service Centres at Dhokla, Sachin and Pandesra. The present activities of these units include training of weavers for quality fabric production, design development on loom, testing and technical service support for loom modernisation activity etc. for local Weavers' Co-operative Societies and weavers in respective areas.

INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES RESEARCH ASSOCIATION
Indian Jute Industries Research Association (IJIRA), Calcutta, registered under West Bengal Societies Registration Act, 1961, is an autonomous Cooperative Research Organization mainly funded by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. IJIRA is governed by a Council, headed by the Chairman, assisted by the Vice Chairman and consisting of 24 members in all, drawn from the Industry, Government, Eminent Professionals and others. The Director is appointed by the Council and is the Principal Executive Officer of the Association exercising general power of supervision and coordination over all activities of the Association and is assisted by the Secretary cum Financial Controller, Deputy Directors. There are nine technical divisions and each division is supervised by and held in-charge of a Head In-charge/ Group Leader.

THE OBJECTIVES OF IJIRA ARE:-
(i) to promote Research and other scientific work connected with the jute trade and industries allied with or accessory thereto;
(ii) to establish and maintain laboratories and foster education of persons engaged in or likely to be engaged in the said trade and industry.
(iii) To encourage discoveries and
(iv) To examine and publish information regarding the nature and merits of inventions, improvements, materials and designs connected with the said trades of industries. At present IJIRA has 59 primary members and 41 associated members. IJIRA has made so far 105 Indian and 15 Foreign Patents. IJIRA has earned 3 NRDC Awards.

WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (WRA), THANE
Wool Research Association (WRA) was established and registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860 in October’ 1963. A group of members representing various woollen industries came forward to establish the Research & Development laboratory for the benefit of woollen industry.
Wool Research Association at present is organized under the following five departments namely:-
i) Physical Test House
ii) Chemical Test House
iii) Textile Technology Department and Pilot Plant
iv) Computer Aided Textile Designing and Colour Research Laboratory
v) Eco-testing Laboratory
And, the WRA is engaged in the following activities:-
(1) Mechanical processing of wool and woollen blends on woollen spinning system.
(2) Processing of Jute, Wool and Synthetic Fibres on Friction Spinning (DREF-II).
(3) Development of elastomeric friction spun yarn and fancy yarn on DREF-II friction spinning machine.
(4) Development of Economic Friction Spun Multicomponent yarn for High-tech (Industrial Fabric) Textiles.
(5) Computer Aided Designing & manufacturing of knitwears.
(6) Computer Applications in Colour Matching and Quality Control, woven printed designs, grading and blending.
(7) Carpet designing, weaving and finishing.
(8) Natural and synthetic dyeing and finishing of wool and woollen blends.
(9) Physical and chemical testing from fibre to fabric.
(10) Eco-testing of textiles.
(11) Project Proposals, Feasibility reports related to above activities.

SPONSORED PROJECTS
A. SCHEMES COMPLETED DURING 1999-2000
R&D work related to following projects was completed before March, 2000:-
1. Computer Aided Embroidary Designing using WRA's CAD system & 'EMI-14B' single head embroidery machine.
2. Development of Instrumental Analytical Techniques methods for separation and identification of isomeric reference to Eco -Testing.

B. SCHEMES LIKELY TO BE COMPLETED DURING 2000-2001
1. Development of Economic Friction Spun yarn multi-component yarn for high-tech (industrial fabrics) textiles.
2. To develop the Software for prediction of worsted yarn characteristics & optimi various parameter of raw material.
3. Role of enzymes in wool processing.
4. Isolation and identification of the most potent insecticides from their group of isomers and their use towards moth proofing.
5. Study of Technical Aspects of Knitwears Comprising of Wool, Acrylic and their Blends.

C. ONGOING SCHEMES AS ON 31/03/2001
1. Development of different types of knitwears, outwears, pullovers, knited shawls from repco spun self twist yarn by using wool and other fibres in suitable blends.
2. To develop cotton core and wrapped woollen yarns on woollen spinning system and study it's suitability for products like dress materials, furnishing and knitwears.
3. Development of innovative yarns and fabrics using elastomers (Lycra, Natural Rubber, Nylon) blended with wool, cotton, acrylic and designing comfortable and fashion oriented garments.
4. To improve aesthetic value of the worsted fabric by enzyme treatment.
5. Investigations of Herbs - Beladona, Neem & Custard Seed as effective moth proofers.
6. The fabricate the woollen carding mahcine of 40" width to processcoarser Indian wool for cottage level.
7. Quality management from Raw material to yarn of wool and wool blends on worsted system.
8. Enrichment of Woollen Fabric with printing for Economic benefits.
9. Derivatisation, Separation of Isomers and their qualification using internal standard.

EDUCATIONAL AND TRAINING ACTIVITY
The transfer of R&D findings and the transfer of adopted technology to the various entrepreneurs and the related industries are covered under HRD Programme/Training Programme. We offer the training programme at WRA and also at the required site.

WRA has started the special training courses as follows:
1. Computer Aided Textile Designing (Part time/Full time)
2. Instrumental Chemical Analysis (Part time/Full time)
3. Textile Testing & Quality Control (Part time/Full time)
The infrastructure for the educational activities like classrooms, furniture, presentation aids, availability of experts and guest lecturers were developed and nearly 20 students were benefited under the above said courses.